• Avril Rodriguez

These Runway Shows Are Changing the Course of Fashion

Updated: Oct 9

After a hectic New York Fashion Week, our team gathered around to discuss the best shows from NYFW with designers of brands such as, Kid Super, Barragán, Altuzarra, among others.





Barragán


If I could describe this show in three words- it would be this:

  1. Karen wigs 2. Botched lips 3.America

Known for the brands political innuendo, Latinx pride, and irony, Barragán’s Spring/Summer 2023 AFTER CHAOS COMES LIGHT collection, sought to poke fun at America’s supposed “culture”, by reimagining American iconography. The designer, Victor Barragán, wanted to offer patriotism with a little bit of spice: belt buckles, mullets, trucker hats, camo, etcetera. The designer created different shapes of everyday clothing to show that anyone can wear it, be it depending on how comfortable you are in wearing certain pieces.

Our favorite looks:


Additionally, the scene is set in a utopia-styled festival turned dystopia. Trash everywhere, toxic toilets, and barricades - a perfectionist’s worst nightmare. Not only was the stage filthy, but the models too.


Models were head-toe powdered with dirt, given fake lips, and scotch tape to fix any fashion-mishaps. The brand leads the audience to believe that the point of the dirty look was to hint at America’s instability and possible demise - or maybe they were just trolling. All the models casted in the show were caucasian - to show that people that are in power are still white, even though they want to sell us the idea of diversity.


Watch the show here:


Altuzarra


Model-off duty mixed with business casual is the perfect way to describes Altuzarra's Spring/Summer 2023 collection. The French-American designer, Joseph Altuzarra was inspired by the ideals of mysticism and naturalism becoming a way to access psychedelic experiences.


The concept:

The collection features pieces that tie into nature by having designs inspired by the desert and patterns that resemble exotic skins. Additionally, the psychedelic awakening of the designer can be seen with the distinct tie-dyes, skins, and voluminous metallic lames. As the show progresses, we begin to see the concept of mysticism, with the distinctive fabrics and cuts of the clothing - but the inspiration doesn't stop there. Different styles of embroidery and fabric patterns, such as Altuzarra's signature coin embroidery and tie-dye, are derived from ancient practices in India and Japan, such as the tie-dye being influenced by the Japanese craft of Shibari.



But aside from the mysticism and ancient inspo, we also see more modern-vintage takes with late 90's - early 2000's baguette shaped parka bags and statement belts. Altuzarra also gives us a preppy look with an edge of sporty chic to give the audience a clean feel for their clothes where the imagination can run free with staple cable sweaters, boxed blazers, parkas, and striped shirts.


The details:



Watch the show here:


Dauphinette


Dauphinette gave NYFW designers run for their money with its line of "fragile" clothing pieces for their Spring/Summer 2023 collection. The collection consists of delicate items interlaced with exceptional dresses to signify the weak state of mind of the creators at the time the line was created. This can be seen with the use of eggshells and thin/fine garments.





The designer, Olivia Cheng, stated the creative direction in an interview with Hypebae, “I approached this collection as a moment to pause, reflect and explore what I’ve learned as a designer and person over this period of time. In the fashion industry, there is a lot of pressure towards velocity and high-volume production. It has been incredibly special to truly sit with every single look and focus more on each look as a sculpture. Every look has a plaque to explain its process.” The looks were created as a form of art and considered impractical for everyday use. I mean of course, you can walk fifth avenue with your egg shell dress - who's going to stop you?




The collection also features a mix of vintage fabrics inspired by designs of the 19th century and modern-day silhouettes and shapes for the dresses. To tap into the whimsical sides of the “fragile” line, Cheng created bags that resembled food such as a baguette bag and a croissant bag.



Kid Super


Kid Super is one of the most innovative and creative rising brands in the fashion industry at the moment. With colorful “fitted: oversized suits and trunk briefcases, the brand aims to mix business with art. The collection follows the concept of a portrait auction coming to life, inspired by Colm Dillane paintings which also happens to be the designer of the fashion brand. The art is multi-faceted with movements such as pop art and based during the contemporary art period. The collection includes cable-knit sweaters, tailored suits and pants, denim “cargo” pants, and saches that are perfect to fit a few paintbrushes. Paintings were auctioned while outfits that correlated to the art was displayed by models.


Check out our favorite looks below:



Watch the show here: